GLOSSARY OF ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Dermedic Glossary of active ingredients

The formulas of DERMEDIC dermocosmetics - based on dermatological, technological and laboratory research and practical application - are developed using the highest standards of quality and safety.
Moreover, DERMEDIC dermocosmetics meet the current specifications of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (EADV) which relate to skin care and skin treatment. In line with the rule - MINIMUM number of ingredients for MAXIMUM effect – DERMEDIC dermocosmetics contain the lowest possible quantity of irritant and sensitizing substances, fragrances and colourants. At the same time, the right formula and accurately selected concentration of active substances guarantee the effectiveness of the cosmetics in looking after sensitive skin and assisting the treatment of the most typical skin conditions.

AC. NET.

A complex compound with a therapeutic effect for treatment of acne-prone skin. It reduces skin inflammation by limiting excessive sebum production, abnormal keratosis and bacterial proliferation in blocked sebaceous glands. It is a compound of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA). The oleanoic acid fights abnormal sebum production. NDGA controls the growth of cells, adjusts improper keratinization and reduces inflammation.

AHA Care (glycolic acid + L-arginine)

Depending on the concentration of the glycolic acid, its application can generate an effect of hydration, peeling, or deep cellular renewal process, while its highest concentrations can have an effect on the dermis. The glycolic acid helps fight the skin's ageing processes, reduces surface wrinkles, restores skin elasticity and thickness of the dermis. It can also be used in the treatment of acne-prone skin, as it controls cellular metabolism and sebum production processes. It has cleansing and calming properties. In low concentrations, glycol increases skin hydration by stimulating the biosynthesis of ceramides which is caused by acids. In low concentrations, the glycolic acid results in the exfoliation of the stratum corneum and simultaneously controls skin keratinization, removes scars and discolourations.

In higher concentrations (above 20%), the acids penetrate the dermis and encourage the production of glycosaminoglycans (GAG) which are responsible for skin water-binding properties. The acids also have a strong effect on dermal fibroblasts by stimulating collagen and elastin fibres, and on the production of mucopolysaccharides – visibly improving skin firmness, reducing lines and wrinkles as well as fighting the skin’s photo-ageing process. The glycolic acid stimulates elastic fibres and improves skin microcirculation, making the skin smooth and firm.

L-Arginine
Arginine is particularly recommended for treatment of atopic dermatitis, which is mainly characterised by reduced urea concentration in the skin. Arginine increases skin hydration, strengthens the skin's protective barrier and alleviates the symptoms of the illness. The repair of skin’s damaged protective barriers is related to the intracellular concentration of potassium ions and potassium channels. Their blockers slow down the repair process, while the opening of the potassium channels accelerates the repair of the barrier only after a single application of the substance which acts on these channels. Arginine is one of the few cosmetic ingredients which open the potassium channels. This property of arginine, in combination with a considerable increase of urea concentration in the skin, gives arginine unique healing and regenerative qualities. Arginine can be safely used on damaged areas of the skin – on injured skin or in the form of an acid peeling treatment.

Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis Mill.)

The aloe vera juice is commonly used in many cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Applied externally, aloe vera has the ability to reach the deepest body tissues. Because of its soothing and moisturizing properties, it is used in skin repairing and conditioning products to treat sunburn, skin irritations and insect bites. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, it also heals wounds, burns and cuts, stimulates cell regeneration and relieves pain. Aloe vera slows the ageing processes and is therefore recommended for products targeting mature skin to help it retain a fresh and healthy look. Aloe vera can be safely applied even to most sensitive skin as it can protect it while causing no irritation.

Allantoin

Allantoin contains soothing, anti-irritating and regenerative properties. It stimulates cellular division, resulting in the regeneration and healing of damaged skin. Allantoin reduces skin redness and irritation; hydrates, soothes and smooths the skin; protects against environmental influences and has anti-radical properties. Allantoin is well-tolerated even by the most sensitive skin types, and is considered a substance which does not cause allergies or irritations. It does not clog pores. Products with allantoin are recommended for treatment of small cuts, surface burns, skin irritation, abrasions, cracked and calloused skin, scars, for skin prone to allergies, irritation and acne as well as for skin with psoriasis and eczema.

Algae

Algae regenerate skin which is damaged through exposure to sun or environmental conditions, they also protect the skin from free radicals. They have excellent hydrating properties, strengthen the blood vessel walls and ensure the correct functioning of the epidermis and the dermis. Algae slow down the skin ageing processes and soften wrinkles. They also have antibacterial properties, control sebum production, improve blood circulation, strengthen the skin’s lipid barrier, supply the skin with oxygen and nourishment, and regenerate it and stimulate its renewal. They have skin lightening properties, calm skin irritation, and make the skin firmer and smoother.

AQUALARE®

The Aqualare complex is an innovative combination of intensively-hydrating betaine and the fine, easily absorbed molecules of uncrosslinked hyaluronic acid, which are connected together with a short molecular chain, with a crosslinked density of hyaluronic acid which intensively revitalises the skin and provides the skin with necessary hydration for a period of 48 hours.

Mountain arnica (Arnica montana L.)

Mountain Arnica is a plant rich in fatty acids, amines and fitoesteroles. The extracts are well absorbed by the skin and on reaching the capillaries, they strengthen and shrink them. They improve blood circulation, reduce swelling and redness, soothe skin irritation and inflammation. Arnica also has cleansing and regenerative properties. Owing to its anti-inflammatory qualities, it is recommended for care of oily hair and demanding skin types which are susceptible to seborrhoea. It reduces swelling and discomfort of the skin. It soothes and regenerates damaged tissue and reduces redness. It strengthens capillary walls and shrinks blood vessels.

The use of Arnica in cosmetics mainly takes advantage of the fact that Arnica extracts penetrate the epidermis and reach the capillaries, causing them to shrink and become stronger. In the event that a vessel becomes damaged, the plasma does not penetrate the strengthened walls and does not enter body cavities. This action finds application in caring for skin with expanded capillary vessels.

Argan oil

Argan oil is a valuable ingredient in cosmetics. It is called the elixir of youth, mostly thanks to the high concentration of tocopherols, i.e. vitamin E (including beta-Tocopherol, gamma-Tocopherol and delta-Tocopherol), which protect our organism from cell ageing and are very effective in fighting oxidants. As much as 80% of its volume are unsaturated fatty acids Omega-6. Argan oil is a very popular ingredient in anti-aging cosmetics.

Argan oil is recommended in the fight against wrinkles, premature ageing of skin, and as such, it is excellent for mature skin. It helps reduce wrinkles by rebuilding the hydrolipid barrier, which renders the skin with a youthful appearance. Thanks to natural antioxidants, it protects the skin from free radicals, it also strengthens the hair and nails. It has strong hydrating properties, it makes the skin firmer and suppler, and it protects the skin from external factors, including: sun, wind, cold, and stress. Moreover, it has excellent regenerative properties. It is also used to treat eczema, cracked skin, acne, allergies and sun burn.

Almond oil

Almond oil hydrates, nourishes, calms irritations, and makes the skin more flexible. At the same time, it does not cause allergies. It is rich in proteins, mineral salts, B-group vitamins as well as A and E vitamins. Recommended for any type of skin, but particularly for sensitive, dry and very dry skin. Prevents ageing of the skin. Treats skin eczema, even psoriasis. Almond oil is one of the oldest and most valuable oils in the cosmetic industry. It is recommended for infant and baby skin as it cares for it in a natural and gentle way, helps to eradicate cradle cap, alleviates nappy rash and skin redness.

Avocado oil

Thanks to its softening, anti-oxidant and anti-aging qualities, avocado oil is a popular cosmetic ingredient recommended for products designed to fight wrinkles, and to moisturize and soften rough skin. Avocado oil contains oleic, linoleic, palmitic and stearic acid. This enables it to penetrate deeply into the skin and provide thorough skin care. In addition to fatty acids, avocado oil also contains lecithin, amino acids, mineral salts, vitamins: A, E, C, and D as well as potassium and iron. A high content of vitamin E gives it the ability to deeply penetrate all skin layers, hence leaving it smooth, supple and relaxed with a healthy appearance. Avocado oil is also a common ingredient in hair conditioning products. The substances contained in the oil help repair and nourish damaged hair, while also stimulating blood flow at the roots to prevent hair loss.

Arlatone Duo

Blend of foaming agents which effectively cleans without affecting the physiological state of the skin. Does not cause irritations.

Birch water

Gives the skin a healthy appearance, calms irritations, and has regenerating, astringent and cleansing properties.

Bisabolol

Natural substance found in camomile. It stimulates cell regeneration, eliminates skin irritations, has strong calming properties which are recommended for skin inflammations, redness and allergies.

Chlorophyll

Chlorophyll, a green pigment of plants and algae, is an excellent and completely harmless alternative to synthetic colourants, as it can be used in all types of cosmetics, including soap, creams, lotions, perfume and deodorants.

Chlorophyll has antiseptic and astringent properties, thus improving the effectiveness of deodorants, however, it is also used in creams and toners intended for oily and mixed skin. It provides intensive hydration, accelerates skin regeneration, heals and soothes skin irritation. Chlorophyll is also a valuable ingredient of products caring for tired and lacklustre skin, as it provides the skin with nourishment and oxygen. It also improves blood circulation.

Cocoa butter

The raw material is obtained from the beans of the Theobroma cacao tree. It contains purine alkaloids - mostly theobromine (about 60% saturated fatty acids), tannins and mineral salts (mostly magnesium). It shows high bio-conformity with the skin. It accelerates the tanning process and improves the colour of the skin. It also has protective properties from UV radiation and prevents the epidermis from becoming excessively dry. The beneficial effect of cocoa butter results from a high concentration of vitamin E and polyphenols, natural compounds with a wide spectrum of application. Polyphenols are known to inhibit inflammation processes. They also have anti-oxidant properties, reducing skin damage and stimulating renewal and regeneration processes of skin cells. The skin becomes healthier, more flexible and more resistant to harmful agents. Cosmetics containing cocoa butter are often used in relaxation massages, as they help to dissipate stress, have an overall calming effect and alleviate pain.

Capislow

Has calming properties, moderates regrowth of unwanted body hair, slows down the cellular growth rate.

Common gromwell extract

Reduces spider veins, reduces swelling and calms inflammations.

CICALINUM® komplex

The patented Cicalinum® complex, developed by the Biogened Research and Development Institute, acts on both external and internal symptoms of Atopic Dermatitis. It restores physiological balance on the surface and within the epidermis, intensely moisturizes and nourishes the skin, and alleviates 6 symptoms of atopic skin: itching, irritation, tension, dryness, redness, and roughness.

The effectiveness of the complex stems from the synergistic combination of Essential Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFAs), phytosterols, and polysaccharides. PUFAs support the barrier function of the epidermis, while polysaccharides in the form of β-glucan additionally moisturize and smooth the skin. The phytosterols used in the complex reduce itching, soothe irritation, and decrease the risk of infections and superinfections.

Dermochlorella

Dermochlorella is a complex compound of amino acids included in a green microalgae Chlorella vulgaris. It reduces dark circles and bags under the eyes, it lightens the skin and reduces its pigmentation.

D-Pantenol

D-Panthenol is a provitamin of vitamin B5. Provitamin means that the substance in the organism and also on the skin is transformed into vitamin B5, i.e. pantothenic acid. This acid fulfils a very important role in metabolic processes and can be found in almost any cell of a living organism. It can be found in liver, wheat, cereal products, eggs, vegetables, yeast and many other food products. Therefore, pantothenic acid deficiency in humans is very rare. D-Panthenol applied externally accelerates the cellular skin division process, has a soothing effect on skin suffering from irritation or redness, but is also recommended for skin suffering from burns.

It has a therapeutic effect on the skin. Scientific research has confirmed that D-Panthenol penetrates the skin through the epidermis, accumulates in the dermis and transforms into vitamin B5, i.e. pantothenic acid. The pantothenic acid reaches the blood vessels in the skin which increases the level of vitamin B5 in the blood. The D-Panthenol found in creams not only gives the cosmetic its calming and therapeutic effects, but also makes the product easier to apply, and hydrates the skin thanks to its water accumulation capacity. As a result, the skin becomes softer and firmer.

DHA Dihydroxyacetone

DHA is a chemically unstable sugar. It is very soluble in water and ethanol. The substance is mainly used in self-tanning products and tanning cosmetics. It is a skin pigmenting substance. It causes skin colouration due to the reaction with amino acids found in the epidermis. This process generates pigments not soluble in water. The reaction is accompanied by a characteristic odour. The colour intensity depends mainly on the concentration of DHA in cosmetics and on the thickness of the stratum corneum layer of the skin. The skin’s return to its natural colour depends on the speed with which the cells of the top layer of the epidermis exfoliate. DHA is a necessary ingredient of cosmetics used for sunless tanning, making it a popular ingredient in the cosmetic industry.

Dry flo pc

A sebum absorbing matting agent. Reduces the stickiness and viscosity of products, smooths the skin. A corn starch derivative.

Ennacomplex

A blend of botanical extracts: witch hazel, walnut, mountain arnica and red vine. This special blend has been developed for use in various types of cosmetic formulas with a specific application in treating broken blood vessels. Each of the plants used in the product contains its own active substances (e.g. tannins, anthocyanosides, etc.) which have a positive effect on the skin. Witch hazel has been selected because of its astringent and therapeutic properties as well as its ability to seal blood vessels, while mountain arnica has cleansing, anti-swelling, sealing and regenerating properties. Ennacomplex helps to reduce the permeability of the capillaries, improves the skin’s appearance and reduces erythema.

Erytruloza

Erythrulose – sugar complex which supports the action of DHA in self-tanning products. Its chemical composition is similar to DHA and it has the same properties. At the same time, it is characterised by considerably higher stability. This is by some considered a disadvantage of this compound as the first effects of pigmentation appear only after about 24 hours. However, owing to its slower permeation through the stratum corneum of the epidermis, the product can be more evenly applied and the tanning effect is more uniform than when DHA is used. Erythrulose works in a slower and more subdued way which makes it ideal for use in natural cosmetics.

The combination of erythrulose and DHA results in natural colour of the tan and extends its effect on the skin.

Extract of Rhodiola Rosea (Happy Skin)

Helps the skin to combat the effects of stress and tiredness – the skin regains its youthful appearance and the wrinkles become less visible. It was also shown that Rhodiola Rosea increases the level of β- endorphins in the blood, having practically no impact on the levels of the other hormones subject to an analysis. Therefore, it improves the general condition and appearance of the skin and produces the feeling of inner wellness and relaxation.

Flaxseed oil

The effect of the flaxseed oil on the human organism is related mainly to the presence of unsaturated fatty acids: Omega 3, Omega 6 and Omega 9 as well as lignans.

Flaxseed oil used externally shows anti-inflammatory, calming and softening properties. It accelerates the regeneration of the epidermis and the dermis (for example after acute inflammations or burns), unblocks sebaceous glands and inhibits bacterial growth. It helps in the treatment of bedsores, ulcers and boils. It also has some antipruritic and anti-allergic properties. It is used as a supplementary ingredient in the treatment of acne, seborrhoea, and blackheads. Flaxseed oil is very well tolerated by the skin – it effectively lubricates and hydrates it, leaving it soft and flexible. It alleviates the symptoms of dry eczema. Is often used in external treatment of psoriatic lesions. In the case of seborrhoea, the right percentage quantity of alpha-linoleic acid ensures the correct fluidity of sebum and its uniform distribution on the surface of the skin. This prevents the sebaceous glands from becoming blocked and prevents the creation of blackheads.

The phytohormones contained in the oil (lignans) are known to lower the activity of 5-alpha-reductase (an enzyme that converts testosterone into dihydrotestosterone), which causes balding in men. Moreover, when used in warm compresses, flaxseed oil is beneficial to the condition of hair and nails. Its most therapeutic application can be achieved when treating the inflammation of the rectum, haemorrhoidal diseases (in a liquid form, as suppositories and rectal ointments) as well as skin burns and frostbite. Also used for treatment of dry skin and atopic inflammation, excessive dryness of cheilitis, slow-healing injuries and lesions on sexual organs. When internally used, flaxseed oil has protective properties regenerating the mucous membrane of the digestive tract, and in larger doses it has a gentle laxative effect. It also has some cholagogic and spasmolytic properties. The essential unsaturated fatty acids are building components of cell membranes. They lower the level of cholesterol, prevent heart disease and blood vessel diseases. They also have a beneficial effect on immunity and the nervous system and stimulate metabolism.

Glycerin

Natural, plant-derived ingredient used as a humectant. Glycerine attracts water to the skin which becomes smoother and softer to the touch. It has strong hydrating properties. Protects the skin from harmful external factors. It penetrates into the skin and maintains the right level of moisture preventing the loss of water through the epidermis. Calms irritation and soothes the skin. Effectively smooths and regenerates the skin. Improves the skin’s elasticity and firmness. Is an ideal ingredient to hydrate coarse and cracked skin, particularly on the elbows and knees.

Glycacil-L (Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate)

An iodine derivative. Eliminates the causes of skin imperfections. Protects cosmetics from recontamination with microorganisms.

Glycerin + Dub Diol

A special complex of synergistic hydrating ingredients which protects the skin from dehydration and dryness.

Ginger

Ginger root extract contains natural antioxidants which have the ability to restrain the activity of free radicals in the skin by turning them into simple and more harmless compounds. Moreover, ginger root extract can completely inhibit the degradation of collagen, thus helping the skin retain its elasticity. Therefore, it is a perfect ingredient for rejuvenating, anti-aging products as well as body-firming and body-modelling formulas. Ginger is also known for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties and is used as a soothing agent in exfoliants.

Green tea (Camellia sinensis L.)

Green tea extract is an important versatile cosmetic ingredient in many product ranges as it inhibits the activity of collagenase, the enzyme responsible for collagen degradation in the skin. Together with strong antioxidant properties, this makes it a perfect ingredient for anti-aging products. Because it is an efficient anti-inflammatory agent, it is often added to cosmetics designed for delicate, irritated skin leaving it soothed and silky to the touch. Green tea extract can also prevent skin damage after long term exposure to UVB light and is claimed to help protect the skin from cancer, and is therefore added to sunscreens. External application of green tea extract helps to increase the skin’s metabolic rate, thus speeding up fat burning and the removal of toxins making it effective in anti-cellulite products. When added to oral hygiene products, it helps reduce bad breath. Green tea extract can also be found in hair-care products as it adds body, shine and volume.

Ginseng

Stimulates the rejuvenation of the epidermis, restores the skin’s physiological balance and controls the hydro-lipid balance. Stimulates the hair matrix and improves the blood circulation in the skin.

Hydroavena HPO

Micronized avena oligopeptides with molecules small enough to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin. They bind moisture in the stratum corneum, making the skin immediately firmer and smoother.

Hydroveg VV

A complex compound designed according to NMF composition (urea, lysine, sodium PCA, lactic acid), occurring in healthy skin. Responsible for maintaining moisture in the stratum corneum.

Hyaluronic acid

Maintains the correct level of skin hydration. Makes the skin stronger and healthier. Cosmetic products containing hyaluronic acid provide in-depth hydration, slow down the ageing processes and make skin tissue firmer.

L-Arginina

Arginine is particularly recommended for treatment of atopic dermatitis, which is mainly characterised by reduced urea concentration in the skin. Arginine increases skin hydration, strengthens the skin's protective barrier and alleviates the symptoms of the illness. The repair of the skin’s damaged protective barriers is related to the intracellular concentration of potassium ions and potassium channels. Their blockers slow down the repair process, while the opening of the potassium channels accelerates the repair of the barrier only after a single application of the substance which acts on these channels. Arginine is one of the few cosmetic ingredients which open the potassium channels. This property of arginine, in combination with a considerable increase of urea concentration in the skin, gives arginine unique healing and regenerative qualities. Arginine can be safely used on damaged areas of the skin – on injured skin or in the form of an acid peeling treatment.

Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza gabra L.)

Liquorice has strong anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties, it also alleviates itchiness, symptoms of allergies and atopic dermatitis, and reduces bags under the eyes. It has antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral properties. It strengthens blood vessels and reduces the redness of the skin. It stimulates cellular regeneration and accelerates the healing of small skin lesions and blemishes. Alleviates the negative effects of UV radiation. Owing to the presence of flavonoids, it has strong antioxidant properties. Improves the regeneration ability of the skin’s cells which naturally decreases with age - that is why liquorice is also recommended as an anti-wrinkle ingredient.

It inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme which takes part in the formation of dark skin pigment (skin discolourations).

The cosmetic industry also takes advantage of another quality of liquorice – the ability to retain water. Water accumulation in the skin, particularly in mature skin, ensures excellent cellular hydration and nourishment. Facial skin becomes smoother, more flexible and, most importantly, healthier.

Mineral filters

Mineral filters (physical) are compounds with molecules which are too large to be absorbed into the epidermis. Instead they form a protective film on the skin – a layer which is a barrier to UV radiation. They reflect and diffuse UV radiation, which is why they are referred to as physical filters. Their protective function is not connected to chemical reactions but to the physical process of light reflection.

Mineral filters belong to the group of non-organic compounds, in contrast to chemical filters which belong to organic compounds. This means that the molecules of the physical filters do not contain carbon atoms in their molecules, as do the chemical (organic) filters. This does not mean, however, that chemical filters have a more natural origin that the physical filters. This should be remembered when we are selecting cosmetics for purchase. Only two compounds are included in the mineral filter group: titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Both filters are considered broad-spectrum filters – they provide protection from both UVA and UVB radiation. Their concentration in the cosmetics is between approx. 2 to 25%, depending on whether the physical filter features on its own or in combination with chemical filters.

Macadamia oil

Thanks to macadamia oil, problems with atopic, sensitive and flaky skin can be solved. Owing to its amazing properties, the oil reduces redness as well as the feeling of burning and itching. Another advantage of using the oil is its therapeutic effect on scars and stretch marks. Oil extracts calm the epidermis and fight cellulite. The oil also adds elasticity and firmness to the skin and inhibits its ageing processes.

Macadamia seed oil is one of the most desirable ingredients in cosmetics for its high content of mono-saturated fatty acids. The high concentration of palmitoleic acid makes macadamia oil an effective inhibitor of free radicals. It is recommended for all skin types, however, it is most effective on dry, flaky, sensitive and mature skin as well as brittle and weak hair. Palmitoleic acid protects the skin in the same way as sebum produced naturally by human skin. The oil easily massages into the skin, absorbs quickly, has regenerating, nourishing and smoothing properties and improves the skin’s appearance.

Owing to its regenerating, nourishing and anti-aging properties, it is particularly recommended for sensitive and delicate skin as well as brittle and weak hair. It contains omega acids, lecithin and unsaturated fatty acids, such as the oleic acid (57%), which protects the skin from premature ageing. It is also rich in vitamins (A, B, E) and minerals. It softens and makes the skin more flexible, leaving it silky smooth. It contains natural UV filters, protecting the skin from burning. Helps relieve sunburn.

Melissa Officinalis

Active substance with astringent, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antiviral properties.

Moisturizing Vegetal Micropatch

Serine enclosed within a network made of collagen and alginate. Serine has a petal-like structure. It provides the skin with long-lasting hydration, protects against skin dryness and prevents water evaporation from the epidermis.

Natural Extract AP

Natural betaine is present in all living organisms and is responsible for normal water balance. It affects the process of water transmission between cells and the surrounding environment. Monohydrate oxyneurine, also referred to as sugar betaine. Has excellent hydrating properties and effectively reduces irritations caused by surfactants. Facilitates the introduction of Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA), and reduces surface tension.

Neutrazen

Innovative active ingredient (an innovative tri-peptide linked to lipids) which is an efficient tool in reducing UV-induced and immune-induced inflammation as well as inflammation resulting from internal and mechanical stress. Neutrazen soothes irritated skin and enables the maintenance of the normal skin sensitivity threshold.

It controls the signs of neurogenic inflammation, reduces swelling and shrinks enlarged blood vessels. It is particularly recommended for skin prone to irritation and redness, atopic skin and skin with broken capillaries.

Olive oil

When used in cosmetic products, olive oil brings great results. Applying pure olive oil directly on the skin gives it a healthy radiant appearance, while the beneficial vitamins penetrate the skin. Vitamin E contained in the oil - a natural antioxidant - has excellent rejuvenating qualities. Thanks to vitamin E, the oil smooths out wrinkles, refreshes, lubricates and calms the skin which is exposed to adverse atmospheric conditions and stress on a daily basis. It contains a natural UV filter protecting the skin from harmful effects of sun tanning (although it should be remembered that this filter is quite weak and must not be used for sun protection on its own). It also contains the valuable vitamin F which is one of the ingredients in the skin barrier which prevents moisture loss. This vitamin helps rebuild the lipid layer of the epidermis and provides the skin with a natural protective barrier. Olive oil has a calming effect on the skin, it strengthens its natural immunity, protects it from dehydration and eliminates rough skin patches. Taking warm baths with a few added tablespoons of olive oil is recommended for people with dry skin and during the heating season. Olive oil, used in homemade cosmetics such as bath oils, masks, peeling masks and cream substitutes, gives excellent results. An olive oil massage stimulates blood circulation making the skin more nourished and smoother. .

Oxynex K

Complex of vitamins C and E. Has strong antioxidant properties. Protects from harmful exposure to external factors.

Orange peel extract

Enzymes found in orange peel oil exfoliate dead epidermal cells, leaving the skin refreshed and revitalised. This ingredient is added to cosmetics recommended for mature skin, as it slows down the symptoms of ageing and stimulates the synthesis of collagen.

P-refinyl

p-REFINYL® is a multi-action active ingredient which attenuates the unsightly appearance of dilated pores. As well as reducing sebum production, it is rich in oligosaccharides and stimulates the process of keratinocyte maturation, thus eliminating from the pore the nucleated cells which stiffen its walls. It also limits pore distortion and slackening, by reinforcing the collagen structure of the epidermis. By tightening the pores, p-REFINYL smooths the skin surface and limits its shine, making the complexion more uniform and more radiant.

Phytosqualan - squalane

A plant-derived squalane is a natural emollient with numerous cosmetic applications: it softens the skin and increases its elasticity, it rebuilds and restores the protective properties of the lipid layer, it hydrates the skin and protects it from being penetrated by harmful environmental agents, has antioxidant properties, nourishes and lubricates the skin and leaves a protective film on the skin’s surface. As part of the intercellular cement, squalane maintains the correct liquid water and lipid structure, ensuring correct skin hydration. In addition, it protects the skin from bacteria, fungi and UV radiation. Squalane hydrates the skin, lubricates it and strengthens its lipid barrier. Squalane also helps to heal small skin injuries and inflammations. An important function of squalane is the increase of the transepidermal transport of active ingredients into the skin. Squalane is a hypoallergenic raw material which does not irritate the skin even at a concentration of 100%. It is recommended for very sensitive skin types which do not tolerate natural plant oils. It belongs to the group of substances which do not clog skin pores.

Polyquaternium-7

Antipruritic agent which is recommended for treatment of persistent scalp pruritus. It is used as an active ingredient in hair shampoos and conditioners.

Physavie®

Offers protection against infrared skin damage. Provides a powerful anti-inflammatory action, increases collagen biosynthesis, and protects from skin discolourations caused by the skin’s exposure to solar radiation.

Questice

Gives a cooling effect on the skin. In contact with the skin, the stable ester undergoes a slow hydrolysis and releases menthol and PCA acid. The gradual release of menthol generates an odourless cooling effect. The process lasts many hours, while cooling is stable and delicate. In addition, PCA is a natural hydrating and caring ingredient.

RonaCare AP

An innovative and intelligent active ingredient. It provides advanced protection from solar radiation. Acts as the "Advanced Protection System" and protects the skin from symptoms of premature aging. After it is applied on the skin, it adapts its protective capacity to the skin conditions of the individual. Remains effective for 24 hours. Has excellent antioxidant properties. Thanks to the application of Rona Care, the lipids on the skin’s surface are additionally protected.

Rosemary extract

Fragrance ingredient, has a stimulating and antiseptic effect. Often used in products intended for oily skin.

RonaCare Luremin® (Retinolike)

Patented substance with efficiency rivalling that of retinol but without the undesired side effects in the form of redness, burning sensation or skin inflammation. Has a positive effect on 10 anti-ageing processes in the skin, namely it regulates the keratinization, prevents the loss of moisture by the epidermis, protects the collagen fibres from breaking down and supports the synthesis of the hyaluronic acid. The effectiveness of RonaCare Luremin® / Retinolike was confirmed through comparative research using retinol.

Ronasphere LDP

Molecules containing silica and iron. Have light diffusing properties and fill in small imperfections.

Soy extract

Contains soy phytohormones which in their structure are similar to the human hormones responsible for the skin’s appearance. Soy extract softens and hydrates the epidermis and prevents the creation of wrinkles as a result of decreased concentration of hormones in naturally ageing skin.

Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid has fungicidal and bactericidal properties. This makes it a popular ingredient in acne treatment products. It is also used in the treatment of blemishes and inflammations. Salicylic acid stimulates cell regeneration and growth. This in turn improves the skin’s colour and texture. It helps to reduce small scars and skin discolourations, making the skin more uniform and fresher.

Shea butter (Karite)

Shea butter is rich in vitamins, as well as stearic and oleic acids giving it excellent moisturizing properties with an additional sunscreen effect. It is also commonly used for the treatment of chapped skin, abrasions and blemishes.

One could say that karité butter is a panacea for all skin complaints. Thanks to the highest concentration of vitamins, allantoin, triglycerides and other auxiliary substances amongst other plant fats, it has excellent skin care properties. Karité butter has a hydrating and emollient effect on the skin. The skin becomes smoother and softer. It also prevents the skin from becoming excessively dry, inhibits the skin’s ageing process and the creation of wrinkles. It has regenerative properties and makes the skin thicker by enhancing the ability of the skin cells to accumulate water. It is particularly recommended for dry skin which lacks the protective film of fat and skin which is poorly hydrated, flaky, scaly and ageing quickly. This skin type is especially prone to fungal, bacterial and microbial infections. These infections result in skin irritations and pruritus, and their prolonged presence on the skin may even result in more serious skin diseases. Pruritus causes itchiness and associated scratching which may create wounds and skin lesions, worsening the skin’s condition. The karité butter inhibits the growth of these microorganisms and alleviates the pruritus, resulting in a quick improvement of the skin’s condition. It protects the skin from the effect of wind and sun exposure. It is a natural solar filter with factor 3-4. The allantoin contained in the butter accelerates the healing of wounds, irritations and inflammations of the skin. It is also used to smooth out scars. Karité butter stabilises the keratosis of the epidermis. It leaves the skin with a delicate and healthy appearance. It also finds its application in the treatment of allergies, psoriasis and dermatosis. It reduces itchiness and lubricates the skin.

Karité butter has a beneficial effect on any type of skin. It does not block skin pores, and has a calming and therapeutic effect on acne-prone and oily skin types.

Sensiva S.C. 50

Alkyl derivative of glycerine ether. Its hygroscopic properties are similar to that of glycerine – it hydrates the skin. It also lubricates the skin and enhances the absorption of cosmetic products by the skin. Is conducive to the growth of saprophytic bacteria on the surface of the skin, limiting the development of deficient bacterial flora.

Stimu-Tex

Extract from spent barley, which thanks to the high concentration of unsaturated fatty acids naturally supports the reconstruction of the lipid layer of the skin. Has a calming effect on tired skin and stimulates cell rejuvenation, leaving the skin firmer and with a more uniform complexion.

Seriseline

Hexapeptide which improves intercellular communication and skin cohesion.

Survicode

Patented lipopeptide with unique anti-wrinkle properties. Restores cells’ genetic potential of young skin and stimulates cell activity.

Tinosorb M

Has a unique quality, as it combines the properties of chemical filters with those of mineral ones, giving it the form of a micronized chemical filter. Protects from solar radiation by acting in a dual way. On the one hand, thanks to its micronized structure it diffuses and reflects the solar rays just like mineral filters, and on the other, it absorbs the solar light’s energy like all chemical filters.

Tinosorb S

Innovative sunscreen with a wide protection spectrum against UVA and UVB, highly photo-stable. Its solar protection parameters are four times more effective than that of Mexoryl XL.

Troxerutin

Troxerutin is the form of rutin which is most easily absorbed by the skin. Troxerutin protects blood and lymphatic vessels by controlling their tension, flexibility and permeability. As a result, it prevents blood and lymphatic capillaries from breaking. It strengthens capillary walls, controls their tension, flexibility and permeability. Minimises erythema. Has a calming effect on overactive blood vessels and rosacea.

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris L.)

Thyme leaf extract is known for its strong antibacterial and astringent properties. Therefore, it is often used in products designed for sensitive skin prone to acne and various irritations. It has a toning effect on the skin leaving it soothed and refreshed. It also helps fight fungal diseases and is recommended for treating athlete's foot. Its antioxidant qualities make it a perfect ingredient in cosmetic products aimed at protecting skin and hair integrity against oxidative processes. Thyme extract is also an excellent anti-inflammatory agent and is used in massage oils for painful muscles and joints as well as in oral hygiene products such as toothpastes and mouthwashes.

Thermal water

Low-mineralised underground water with a temperature greatly exceeding the average annual temperature of the area from which it is drawn. Has a calming and therapeutic effect on the skin. Enhances the regeneration process of the skin and prevents inflammations.

Urea

Urea is a substance occurring naturally in our body. It is one of the crucial components of the NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) – a natural hydrating agent which is responsible for hydrating the stratum corneum of the epidermis. In the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, this compound has been used as a strongly hydrating and gently exfoliating ingredient for many years. When used in concentration below 10%, urea has a hydrating and softening effect on the skin, increasing the penetration of active ingredients into the skin. When used in concentrations above 10%, urea has an exfoliating effect, regulates epidermal keratosis, softens the skin and increases the permeability of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, facilitating the permeation of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin.

Urea is used in hydrating products which eliminate rough skin, soften and exfoliate it. It is also used in products intended for treatment of chronically dry skin, psoriasis and keratosis pilaris. Owing to the instability of urea in the presence of water, urea is usually combined with lactic acid or its salts (sodium lactate).

Unsaturated Fatty Acids: Omega 3, Omega 6, Omega 9

Amongst other functions, unsaturated fatty acids affect the intercellular cement of the epidermis. They act through the normalisation of the synthesis of the cell hormones and reaction with specific receptors, having an effect on the epidermis and the dermis – in particular by improving their hydration. The effects of the unsaturated fatty acids in deeper layers of the skin, i.e. the dermis, may only be visible after several months of regular application.

As a result, the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is usually restored to its normal level, symptoms of dry skin are eliminated, inflammations are reduced, while the skin regains it smoothness and elasticity.

Ursolic acid

Has regenerative properties, which are particularly visible during the synthesis of connective tissue fibres, in addition to very strong cell detoxifying and protective action. Inhibits the ageing of the skin and supplements the activity of other compounds from the triterpenoid group.

Vitamin C

Protects the skin from the damaging effect of the UV radiation, speeds up the collagen synthesis process, supports the correct structure and functions of blood vessels and has antioxidant properties.

Vitamin E

Vitamin E, a mixture of a-, b-, g-, and d-tocopherols, is one of the most frequently used vitamins in the cosmetic industry. This complex is perfectly soluble in fats, but practically insoluble in water. Consequently, vitamin E is recommended for use in emulsions. Vitamin E occurs in nature in large quantities, probably the highest from the group of fat-soluble vitamins. The richest source of vitamin E are vegetable oils (e.g. corn oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, and evening primrose oil), wheat products and green parts of the plant (broad beans, peas, lettuce and cabbage). It can also be found in butter, margarine, eggs and liver. As tocopherols are strong antioxidants, initially they were used as stabilising additives in the cosmetic products which included unsaturated fatty acids in their formulas. With time, it was shown that due to its ability to neutralise free radicals, vitamin E protects against oxidization and destruction of the epidermal lipid layer, collagen and elastic fibres.

The research also showed that cosmetic creams with vitamin E also prevented irritations and sunburn, which is all the more surprising when we consider the fact that tocopherols are relatively poor sunscreen agents. This is due to the fact that they are able to capture and bind the free radicals created by UV radiation. Free radicals created in the skin as a result of sun exposure can generate irritations and sunburns, and consequently, accelerate the skin’s ageing processes and even lead to the creation of some tumours. As an effective protective agent against free radicals, vitamin E fights the skin ageing and degenerative processes, and also protects the skin from damaging environmental factors. Applied locally, it has anti-inflammatory and anti-oedematous properties.

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Kompleks o działaniu leczniczym dla skóry ze skłonnością do trądziku. Łagodzi stan zapalny skóry przez zmniejszenie nadmiernego łojotoku, nadmiernego rogowacenia i rozmnażania bakterii w zatkanych ujściach gruczołów łojowych. Jest związkiem kwasu oleinowego i NDGA (Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid). Kwas oleinowy zwalcza nadmierny łojotok. NDGA reguluje wzrost komórek, zmniejsza nadmierne rogowacenie i stan zapalny.

Xpertmoist by Antarcticine

Complex of phytopolymers in the form of a molecular film which contains powerful moisturizing and regenerating active ingredients. It contains glycoprotein from the ocean’s seabed. It induces the proliferation of keratinocytes and increases the adhesion of fibroblasts. It stimulates the formation of collagen I and IV as well as elastin. It enhances the natural bioprotective properties of the skin. After 30 days of use, the skin is regenerated and the wrinkles become shallower by up to 50%.

y word

Zinc PCA

Is the zinc salt of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid. L-PCA acid is obtained by the cyclization of L-glutamic acid. Zinc is known for its properties inhibiting the activity of the enzyme accelerating the production of dihydrotestosterone - the hormone which is responsible for seboregulation. Zinc inhibits the activity of 5-α-reductase in seborrheic skin.

Glossary of active ingredients